Project Runway 5/23/19--"New York City of Dreams" summary

Previously on “Project Runway”: designers were asked to design a high fashion look for a cause they want to promote. Everyone had a cause to work on, although some of them didn't work for fashion looks. Tessa made a dress referring to her sexual assault, and it was weird because she alluded to it but didn't explain until an obvious producer-planted question on the runway. It just felt like someone decided to orchestrate that reveal for maximum emotion and it might be Tessa but it certainly could be the producers. Also everyone had to make T-shirts, but that was pretty low drama. Venny's shirt said “i have a name” and black and white. I think it was the best by far. Sadly his design had too many things going on, and was poorly made, so he was sent home. Sebastian made a gorgeous gown with different shades of skin tone, but he lost to Bishme, who was supporting Baltimore youth with a dress with sequined faces. (click for more)

Everyone is up at 6am for whatever reason. They get a text (on that random communal cell phone) from Christian, telling them to meet him at his boutique in an hour. Do you think they're normally up that early? Or do you think they were told to be awake and dressed and act surprised? Bishme says he's going to “touch the walls at his place.” I'm not sure what that means.

Christian's store is in a brownstone and looks amazing. Tessa says she wants one of everything. She just...everything “cute” or “funny” she says just sounds calculated. I mean after she says that she just kind of looks around with a side eye and a pursed mouth, like OK I said the funny thing but no one is laughing. I don't know. Maybe I just don't like her personality and now I'm at Bitch Eating Crackers stage. The store itself is called The Curated because he curates different brands. Upstairs is the atelier where he makes all his own stuff. Sebastian says he tried to open his own store twice, but since no one knew him he had a hard time getting business. Christian tells the designers that he has thousands of dresses in here, because women are so different. Aww. I never thought that tiny flamey boy who said “fierce” every other word would grow up and become the go-to for women who can't get a dress from other major fashion houses because they aren't slender white women. Right? Anyway, he says high fashion needs to be more inclusive. It's makeover time. There are six women who “keep the city moving” and are underserved in fashion. We have someone who works in sanitation, the ferry service, NYPD, FDNY, the post office, and a teacher. Make their dream dress. It's a credit to Christian that I would believe this was his idea. I mean when they said “how should we structure the makeover challenge” I can believe he said “I know what to do.” Also they're going to go to work with them this morning. Ha! Someone be as entertaining as Jay and Wendy trying to deliver the mail.

They don't show how they were paired with clients, which of course means that they carefully thought about it for maximum emotion/drama. You know, I was asking around on the internet about the models, because they haven't said how model selection happens, and as we saw during the handbag challenge, if left to their own devices, no one picks the plus sized women. But they're still around. Someone said (and I agree) that the models just have regular contracts, and the producers just give some people longer contracts than others. So all that order has already been pre-determined. I mean I'm not surprised they're controlling that so the plus size models make the finale. I guess I'm more surprised that they pretended the designers had control over model selection for so long.

Anyway, Garo is paired with Debra the postal worker. He seems excited about spending the morning with her. Hester has Dina, NYPD. Hester claims to have never been in a cop car before. Nicole drives a street sweeper with Sebastian. Hee. Maria is an EMT, and she has Tessa. I thought Tessa would get the woman with the larger bust, but no dice. Angela works on the ferry line and is 19. Jamall talks to her and finds out her goal is to eventually be captain. Jaclyn is the teacher, and she has Bishme. They are already trying to do some 4^th grade math and failing. Heh. She would love a long dress because it's something she doesn't get to wear. Angela would love a red evening gown, but with sheer sleeves. She doesn't like her arms. And a train. So now Jamall's all concerned this isn't his style. Dina asks Hester for off the shoulder with some back showing. Nicole has a boyfriend and is hoping that at some point, she'll be engaged and can wear this dress to her engagement party. Sebastian doesn't say a lot but he seems enthusiastic. Debra wants to command attention when she walks in, and Garo is into it. Maria is super girly, she just doesn't get the chance or time to get glammed up. Also she wants pink, so this is why she's paired with Tessa. Tessa tells her flat out that she designs minimalist looks, and she designs in black and Maria will totally look great in black. OK but so do I and I have owned like, three black pieces because I like colors. Then Maria says she's OK with gray and black (...sigh) but she wants a short skirt. Tessa counters with a jumpsuit with detachable skirt. What? Maria's face is great. Tessa promises she won't look too short. Then she says in confessional that she's “never really desired to create custom work”. Meaning, she doesn't want to have to consider her client when she designs, she just wants to make what she wants and assume it's so great people will buy it. Which...I mean I guess that's a strategy you can take. Tessa also says in confessional that it's hard to balance pleasing the client with staying true to herself, except for the part where we haven't seen her attempt to please the client at all yet.

I know that these challenges are always about not listening to the client too much. The loser tends to be whoever made what the client wanted, because that client wanted something unfashionable, or whatever. So I get why Tessa would insist on staying true to her style. But Jamall is having the same problem, and he didn't say a single word about it. So did he complain too but they cut it to make Tessa look bad? Or is Tessa really the only one who flat out told her client she was making whatever she wanted? I know the judges want her to stay true to her aesthetic, but not by telling the client “OK so you love pink and a short dress, but I'm a minimalist and I work in black and I am going to make you a jumpsuit.” At Mood, Garo seems to be trying not to be in the bottom again. Sebastian's client wants pink and sparkly, and he seems to be at a loss. He tells Christian his client has expensive tastes. Bishme has electric blue, and Christian does that thing where he's like “You do you” and they joke a little bit. Sebastian buys some silver/white lace and Christian literally gasps. It's not Sebastian, but he says that's what she wants. Christian points out if she said “sparkly”, she probably meant sequins or beading or something, not shiny lace. Somehow Christian helps him find something he can afford.

I think they have the rest of the day. Garo isn't doing a big corset so he's bought two fabrics so his client can choose. Jamall isn't sure what he's going to make, because he's not used to listening to anyone. He also says he's making a red silk evening gown, but it looks pretty pink to me. Maybe it's my TV. Tessa interviews that she, Jamall, and Hester have never made a custom garment. She's still making this skirt over pants idea, which I always think look terrible. Jamall asks if she asked her client about pants, and Tessa says she wanted a short dress so she would look taller, and Tessa does not agree that's what will happen. OK so half the designers have never made a custom outfit, and out of the other three one of them has a client that doesn't match his usual style. But out of these four people only Tessa seems to be ignoring her client entirely. Is everyone else bitching and they cut those parts out to make Tessa look bad? Regardless, Tessa IS saying these things and having this attitude. Because she feels you can be modern and chic in pants, she is making pants. With a belt with pieces of fabric tied onto it for a skirt. That sounds like a horrible idea no matter who thought of it. Y'all watch Rupaul's Drag Race? You remember Soju's first runway look? Where she just knotted a bunch of fabric? Yeah. She thinks this will impress the judges.

Oh, I guess they have two days. Bishme is telling people the math problem he failed on, I think because he's so proud he eventually got it right. Hee. Hester doesn't know if she can meld her aesthetic with someone else's: it's either 100% Hester Sunshine or 0%. Unlike Tessa, she says that she hopes she can put in a little of her youthful craziness, and some of her client's mature sophisticated aesthetic. Sebastian interviews that his client is very girly, and trying to mix everything can go wrong. Tessa tells him that his dress is cute but it's not fashion. I was going to say “mind your own business” but he may have asked her opinion. Tessa then brags to everyone standing around that her client asked her for a short dress and she is making pants, a top, and a skirt. And then she laughs. Yeah that's not editing. She really has no interest in pleasing her client at all. Tell me the editing cut out someone else's rant and I'll turn on them too, but editing doesn't put words in her mouth. Garo interviews that this challenge was literally presented to them as a “dream DRESS” challenge. Jamall is worried because his client doesn't like arms. Garo suggests maybe it's just the top of her arms, because he always covers that on everyone. No armpits. Jamall doesn't want to make her uncomfortable, but he doesn't make prom dresses and that's what she wants. But he's still trying to make a prom dress, is the difference here.

Day Two. Everyone eats breakfast and lounges around. Tessa and Hester talk about...something. They talk over each other and they only caption Sebastian later, which is obnoxious. I understand Sebastian perfectly well. It sounds like Tessa is pretending she would have not used black if her client wanted, but thank goodness she didn't! Which we all know is bullshit. She then pretends that she's never used black this competition, which the editors immediately refute with a shot of three of her looks. She tells everyone she's been WEARING black and they're confused. You idiot, you know they're going to get all the shots of the black looks you've made and show them here to make you look stupid. That's how reality TV looks. Hester interviews that Tessa thinks very highly of herself, and she's upset she hasn't been recognized the way she feels she deserves. But then maybe she should make something she hasn't made before. Damn.

Jamall asks Garo for advice on how to sew some facing or something. I didn't understand it but because his client wants body-con and not volume, he's not sure how to do what she wants. Christian shows up for advice. Bishme's blue maybe looks a little Disney princess. Bishme shakes his head and says Christian doesn't like him, or something, and they joke a little bit. He says he wants to stay true to himself, but it's more important to him that she's happy. Christian says it is important to make your client happy, but also if you're excited about the look, sometimes the client will get excited too. OK why did it take 17 seasons for someone to drop this truth? Instead of “you just tell your client what you're doing, don't let them ruin it”. Sebastian has put his skirt over one shoulder and is spinning for some reason. Heh. He's also having the same struggle as Bishme, where he doesn't want to upset her but he also is struggling with making something he isn't used to. Christian is unimpressed with the vintage look. He's got the shape, but maybe he can do something modern elsewhere. Sebastian decides to put stitching over the sequins. Garo has two dresses, one in pink and one in purple. But Hester is using the exact same pink, so maybe stick to the purple, which he is calling “deep heliotrope purple” for whatever reason.

Tessa flat out LIES to Christian that her client wants something “sophisticated” and “loves” dark colors. IMMEDIATE flashback to Maria saying pink is her favorite. My favorite editing is shady editing like this. The fabric “skirt” looks like shit. It's just lengths of fabric in multiple neutral colors knotted to rings. Christian points out it's the “dream DRESS” challenge and the judges could decide to send home the person who didn't make a dress. Makes sense. He asks if she made the pants already, and of course she has. So he says she'd better start sewing those seams together. Ha! Tessa acts like she changed her mind on her own, and is making a plain black skirt so she can technically have a “dress”, but still with this shitty belt with fabric hanging off it.

Model fitting. I am immediately infuriated because Tessa's client says she loves it. Tessa needs to be called on her bullshit. Garo's client loves the purple and it fits beautifully. Debra loves it. Jamall has made a great dress, but it's very simple so maybe something else needs to happen. Plus it has no sleeves. Hester is not making anything “edgy” and I think she's freaking out. They agree not to do a sheer wrap around her shoulders. Tessa has made a slim black gown with one shoulder and like the bottom six inches cut into strips like it's 2015. And the stupid overlay. Sebastian is wrapping some ribbon around and they seem to be agreeing on what to do. I think Bishme talks his teacher out of using an overlay. And she wrote him a card! Aww!

Tessa tells Sebastian her goal is to please Brandon. See, this is the problem right here. You can't do shit to please the judges, because every time that happens, they hate it. Sebastian laughs at her and says “not your client”. Tessa claims her client likes it, and I'm still holding out hope for her client to throw her under the bus on the runway. Sebastian tells us in interview that this isn't a car wash skirt, this is a skirt where the strips are diagonal, which he taught her to do in the second challenge. So he's disappointed she's not taking any risks. Oo.

Back home everyone drinks and Bishme reads his card. His client is amazing, and says that not only is this a dream, but that Bishme inspires HER by showcasing the things she teaches her students, like believing in yourself and never giving up. Aww! That is such a great pairing.

Runway Day. Bishme gives his client an extra hug. Hester knows her look isn't perfect, and says that she focused too much on what her client wanted, and not enough on what she should have. And the look isn't Hester at all. Jamall doesn't have time for sleeves. Now Tessa wants to add pink ribbon to the inside of the skirt. I can't believe that after two solid days of flat out lying to everyone about what her client asked for, that she suddenly decided to use some of her client's favorite color because she felt bad. She must have worried last night that she'd be in trouble if she got caught in her lie. Jamall doesn't have sleeves, but he may put a strap in to make sure she feels secure in the top. The back doesn't quite fit properly, but he doesn't have time to fix it properly either. Two things I notice: first of all, his client is larger and we have not once seen him complain that that's why it doesn't fit. Second, it worries me if it's not constructed properly that he'll be sent home over Tessa. Meanwhile Tessa is not hemming because of course not. Christian tells her so, because the chiffon is not hemmed so it looks terrible. In addition to being various skin tones hanging off metal rings. Backstage it seems like Christian is telling Tessa the overskirt is unfinished and maybe she should remove it. Because of course the rings are not on a detachable belt like she had planned. But then she starts cutting off the chiffon and Christian reacts like he thinks it's a terrible idea. Maybe leave a few? But she says the chiffon all frayed on the walk from the workroom to backstage. But she leaves the black ones, I guess hoping they'd blend in.

Guest judge is Danielle Brooks. Garo: purple off the shoulder dress, fitted closely, with a pencil skirt. He's got slightly pointed shoulders, and two lengths of chiffon hanging off the back like wings. There's some sparkle around the neckline too. Also Debra is feeling it which always helps. Sebastian: tea length dress in light pink with sequins. This is also off the shoulder, with wide strips making the neckline. I think we saw before he had a strapless dress, and then added the strips. The skirt looks like it has different panels of sequins and matte fabric. There's a big vertical bow on one hip, one of those where you fold a sash and sew it on vertically. Nicole is also working it, doing spins and stuff. When she turns around, you can see the strip that's wrapped around her arms doesn't dip back down to the back of the dress but instead sits across her shoulders.

Hester: slim hot pink dress, hitting below the knee. The top has some spaghetti straps criss crossing around her neck. On the skirt are two inserts of chiffon. Like side panels, and I think they are not the hot pink of the dress but more orange? Maybe because it's chiffon or satin or some other fabric so the colors don't match exactly. But it's a straight skirt with narrow flowy panels. Tessa: black dress, with one shoulder. The shoulder is pretty wide, almost coming down to her elbow on that side. The skirt has been slit much higher than when she tried it on, so she's showing plenty of leg but also is not having trouble walking. And there is one lone strip of dark brown chiffon hanging off the front. There are a couple strips of black, too, but they blend in some. The chiffon hangs down slightly longer than the actual skirt.

Jamall: long red evening gown. It does look more red. I think maybe there are very thin spaghetti straps, and the skirt looks very long, like maybe she might step on it. She looks uncomfortable, and it's not clear if she just is uneasy walking in heels, or if she doesn't like the look. Bishme: long sleeveless gown in a darker turquoise. The top has a deep V and some pleating, so it does look like there are pieces over the top of a strapless top. Then an asymmetrical peplum with more pleating. The pleating lies flat, but it looks great. On the high side, the skirt is slit pretty high, and it moves wonderfully.

Everyone knows Garo's client loves her dress, they can tell. The chiffon wings detach too. She says she can still move in the corset, it's not too tight. Brandon randomly asks Sebastian's client if she does pageants, and she admits that she has won pageants. It's hilarious to me that she was so obvious to him and I didn't even notice. I guess it was the spin and the wave. Nina is asking everyone specifically what they asked their designers for, and so far both Garo and Sebastian have provided what they asked for. But you know who that question is for. She also loves her dress, clearly. No one says anything about the dress itself. Dina says she asked Hester for anything but navy blue, because she wears navy blue every day. She asked for color and to show some skin, and she feels like a million bucks. Nina says she looks comfortable, which is a weird complement.

Tessa's client Maria says she wanted something elegant, but then she does tell the judges pink is her favorite color, and Tessa nods and grins as if she hasn't been lying to everyone for two days about how much this girl loves dark colors. The camera manages to catch Nina's “are you fucking kidding me” look. Tessa points out the pink ribbons in the hem, which I didn't see at all on the runway, and then talks about the “pink” chiffon she cut off. None of what she cut off was pink, except for how “skin” I guess has some pink in it. To my extreme annoyance, Maria says she likes the belt because it added a pop of color and you can't go out and buy something like that. Yeah, for good reason. What happened to the woman side-eyeing everything Tessa said when they were in the back of the ambulance? Ugh. Jamall wanted to elevate a prom dress. It was supposed to be long, with a train, so I guess the long back was supposed to do that. So there aren't straps over her shoulders like I thought. The straps are under her arms, cinching the top of the dress. Bishme's client has been in too many weddings with dark, high necked bridesmaid dresses. The editors insert a shot here of Tessa and her client looking very uncomfortable, as if she's directly insulted them. But why? Anyway, Bishme asked how she wanted to feel, in addition to what exactly she wanted. The peplum accentuates her figure. So then Karlie kicks the clients out so they can talk to the designers?

Karlie thanks them for “celebrating” their clients. Bishme, Garo, and Sebastian are the top three. They can leave. So are they doing this now so that the clients don't have to hear about how terrible their outfits are? Actually I wish they'd been doing it this way this whole time. Hester wasn't sure how to blend her craziness with someone who is more modern. She got caught trying to do what her client wanted, but she's so niche it was too difficult. They decide it was a communication issue.

Karlie tells Tessa they all thought it was Tessa's own dream dress that she was putting her client in, as opposed to her client participating. True. Tessa claims that Maria didn't have anything specific in mind, except that she likes black and charcoal. Nina fires back that she said she liked pink. Tessa has the audacity to talk back to Nina and say she liked “light pink” but she didn't want a full pink gown. Girl, they just showed again the flashback shot to how you're a liar. I guess you'll never have to worry about having to make a custom garment ever again. Danielle says she knows the client did not get what she really wanted. Nina tells Tessa she should have challenged herself, and maybe it's a lack of passion, or is she trying to play it safe? Ouch. Tessa tries to make some explanation that they've critiqued her minimalist aesthetic, so she was trying to show something more complex with the chiffon. The cameraman who is catching every skeptical facial expression from Nina deserves a raise. Brandon points out they've talked to her about finishing the hems of things, Tessa pretends that he must mean the chiffon, and says that the chiffon was “cleanly finished” in the workroom. I mean, I guess while she was still in the workroom it wasn't frayed yet. In this new flashback of the runway, you can see the ribbon in the skirt, so I guess I missed it the first time. She appears to be claiming she used the fusible hem tape? I think the stuff she used to put the ribbon on? Did she put that on the chiffon? I don't think so. “Other designers use hem tape too.” Brandon fires back that other designers also finish the hems of their garments. He doesn't want to have a fight about it, but she never finishes hems so is she doing it on purpose or what? Tessa says it's a timing issue, which is also a lie because I'm pretty sure she's said several times that unfinished hems are her thing. Brandon interrupts her so we can move on.

Jamall's dress isn't him, but he got into his head and took the wrong steps all the time. His client was the most uncomfortable on the runway, and Nina says it was all falling apart. Elaine points out that he's previously had trouble with the plus-sized models. He admits he's had a huge learning experience on this show. Unlike Tessa, however, he knows and is admitting he fucked up and should be better with plus-sized women.

Back in the Scrap Bin no one is happy. General consensus seems to be that Hester is safe. They really overpraise her but in this case, that's probably where she should be. Jamall is upset with himself. Tessa, meanwhile, is insisting that is her client's dream dress. Jamall tells her she needs to cool it with her “other people use hem tape” and other people do whatever. It makes her look bad. “But that's how I feel.” And that time people said they didn't think your look was elegant, you got really pissy, but that's how they feel. Jamall points out it just looks like she's making excuses, and I'd like to give him credit here for not telling her to stop because they're all upset she's trying to throw them under the bus by tattling. But it does look like excuses, and I think Brandon's reaction shows that's how it's being perceived. Tessa just says “No” because she can't fathom that she's wrong. Other people use hem tape, so it's the truth, so she should say so.

The clients come back out, and Karlie says that Hester and Bishme are safe. Bishme isn't going to win?! I hate this show sometimes. Nina says now that she sees Tessa's dress up close, it looks worse. In addition to the hems, the strips in the skirt are crooked and the one shoulder isn't fitted properly. Brandon makes a big huff and throws his hands up dramatically and walks away. Calm down, drama queen. He's pissed because Tessa wasn't listening to anything he said. Karlie says the one good thing is the fabric of the dress is the right fabric, and the dress is comfortable and flattering. Jamall's client likes the dress but not the boning. The minute she says he gave her what she wanted, I have a horrible feeling. If they asked Maria what she REALLY said to Tessa, we aren't shown it. But as we know from past experience, the person who gave the client what they wanted will go home before the person who didn't listen to their client at all. It's the wrong fabric, so the back is all jacked up by the zipper. Her bust looks great, but it could have been much better.

Garo did a great job, and they praise how he listened to his client. Also Brandon can't resist holding up the edges of this chiffon to show that it's finished properly. Elaine insists this is a true dream dress, because you couldn't buy it off the rack. I think you could buy one without the chiffon, but the corset wouldn't be fitted to you. Sebastian delivered. It fits wonderfully and it's what she asked for. Elaine feels it's dated and too retro. Well, Nina loves it anyway.

Karlie says Sebastian's dress is the best made dress on the runway. Garo had a comeback from last week, though. Nina says Jamall needs more time to grow and develop, and learn to do better construction. “It's time” for him to go home. Karlie says that Tessa could go home for unfinished crooked hems and it's not a dream dress. Elaine points out that both dresses are simple dresses that were not executed well. Danielle also points out that Tessa doesn't listen, but Jamall is willing to listen and take criticism.

Bishme is in. Sebastian is the winner! Garo is in. I still think Bishme should have won but whatever. Sebastian should have won last week. Hester is in. Jamall's dress was poorly constructed and unflattering. Tessa did not make a dream dress and played it safe. Tessa is in. I fucking told you guys. Jamall is out. The judges tell him that he has a ton of vision and inspiration, and is inspiring. He's learned a lot, especially a lot of confidence.

Next week: “experiential fashion show”, I think multiple looks, Hester freaks out, Sebastian gives up.