Previously on “Project Runway All-Stars”: the remaining designers were able to make whatever they wanted. The runway was outside for no reason, meaning no one could see anything. Bishme made a weird skirt that was sheer to the knee and then giant brown ruffles and he won. Kara Saun made a coat covered in feathers which was a lot. She was eliminated, even though they yelled at Prajje for making something dated. (click for more)
There was also a bizarre B plot of Prajje thinking he invented fabric crossed over someone's chest and therefore Brittany stole his look.
Christian shows up to the Scrap Bin and says it's hard to lose friends. Korto calls Kara Saun the heart of the group. But it's time for the next challenge. Elaine is back on the runway, which just makes me roll my eyes. Who cares about any challenge Elaine does. Christian loves flair. Elaine says some nonsense about how your clothes can represent you but also sometimes you have to conform. Which is the worst. “One minute you can be called too aggressive, and the other minute you're called too meek”. Elaine that's just how you and the other judges are. Come on. Elaine claims this is called a “double bind” and now we're celebrating women wearing whatever they want. Listen I know this is a real thing but the way they had Elaine present it was the worst because asking the designers if they've ever felt like they're getting blamed for opposite problems is obvious. The judges do it all the time. They whine that they're bored with your signature and then they complain the next week that it's not there.
Anyway, the challenge is to make one look that showcases two styles. How does this eliminate the double bind problem? Why have you been harping on women expressing themselves and wearing whatever they want when you're forcing the designers to have contradictions? Just make them do looks that have two styles, without all this bullshit about judging women that I know you don't care about? The examples they give are both from the Met Gala and just seem to be “make an outfit and put something random in it”. Is Kylie Jenner wearing a wedding dress and a backwards ball cap “blending” or whatever the fuck? Also just to be EVEN WORSE you will be “randomly” assigned the conflicting styles. Bishme gets “basic and bold” which is already pissing be off because you can easily be both those things. Is “basic” automatically bland? I didn't think so. Korto gets “formal and casual” which is dumb, if at least a better pair than Bishme's. Rami gets “fitted and oversized”, Prajje has “elegant and edgy”, and Brittany has “sexy and modest”. Laurence gets “classic and trendy”. These are all dumb. Bishme gets the advantage to trade assignments with anyone else, but he is not interested. Also a one day challenge for no reason.
30 minutes to sketch. Rami talks about pushing himself. He's just making a tight dress and a big coat. I wish he'd even do like, oversized collar and fitted sleeves or something. Laurence is making a jumpsuit.
In the morning, Prajje's advice for Brittany's “sexy/modest” look is to show some tits. Korto is going to buy brocade because that's what she does. She buys black at Mood and Christian reminds her she just did black. She claims to have suffered the judging thing that I was talking about, although she has made some short skirts so that was legit criticism. Christian gives Rami shit for wearing a Hawaiian shirt, for some reason. It at first sounds like Laurence is over by like $15 but nothing happens.
Rami asks Brittany if she knows what a double bind is, and Brittany says she does because people see her and assume because her hair is bleached blonde she must be a bitch. That's not a double bind, Brittany. That's just stereotyping. I forgive her, though, because in order to combine sexy and modest I thought she'd just make like, some lingerie and put a coat over it. No, she's making a long sleeved, long dress and corset, but all made out of lace. So everything is “covered” but with lace so you can still see skin. So you could be sexy but also covered in fabric. Bishme is making a hoodie, but a gown. He says as a black person you have to have a certain attitude if you're wearing a hoodie. While this is true...not a double bind. At least Brittany eventually got to “be sexy but without makeup” and “don't be slutty but show some skin”.
Christian shows up to make disappointed noises. Laurence has a jacket or jumpsuit with multiple fabrics and a weird extra piece on the back. Maybe streamline. But Christian likes the concept. Bishme had thought the “basic” could be the hoodie fabric but “bold” is the gown. He should make it super obvious it's a sweatshirt. Korto is making casual pieces out of formal fabrics and vice versa. Then she tries to get into it with Christian for being safe last time because that is “basic”. He's not even involved in judging. She claims the details on her clothes weren't considered, and they're not basic, but you couldn't see them in the shitty lighting. She thinks she's damned if she does, damned if she doesn't. I'm sure she's heard that before. But she's arguing that she's never boring so how could they keep her designs safe? It's also confusing because no one actually called her “basic”, she just decided that since they told her she was too safe that means they're calling her basic. Her looks can't possibly be safe because she's true to herself and they cast her. Girl you know they don't cast you only based on your work. I hear what she's saying and I think she has a great point but they're just going to focus on how they never said the word “basic”. Christian shows up to talk to Rami and he thinks the brocade is too dated. Rami disagrees but Christian is still making comments about the Hawaiian print shirt. Brittany has to have all the solid parts of her clothes be perfect. Prajje is making origami out of fabric, which these judges haven't seen yet. But it might not be edgy enough, even if it is impressive.
We continue to not talk about things that are “double binds”. Did Laurence face racism as a child? Absolutely. Did people tell her a bunch of nonsense about what she can and can't do? I'm sure they did. It's not a double bind. There's no conflicting messages. Being free to express yourself doesn't mean you're not going to face a double bind when the judges complain they don't see you in the look.
The models appear. Brittany's “lace” is all sheer with pinstripes. I thought when they said “lace” it would be...you know. Lace, all floral patterns but you can see skin in between. This is just sheer. Christian makes a face at Prajje's plan, I guess because the origami is going on a big piece of fabric which he thinks is “Golden Girls going to lunch big scarf”. Prajje's response is to say he loves the goddamn Golden Girls.
Three hours left. Bishme's not happy and Prajje asks why he looks like he missed the bus. He's really not satisfied with this sweatshirt dress. He doesn't really have extra fabric, so he's got to stick with what he has. I do like his idea. Korto interviews that she wasn't herself for a long time, like not correcting people pronouncing her name wrong, but now she knows she's great. Brittany talks about how exhausted they all are, and then Bishme puts some heels on and they get music from somewhere to dance around. Rami does like a belly dancer hip shake and everyone laughs.
Lots of laying around at the “Night Lounge”. I guess now is the point of the season when everyone loses it. Rami tries to give Bishme some advice but he just makes jokes about how old Rami is. They are all laughing so I guess it's not that serious.
Runway Day. Christian shows up to be cheerful and bring the models. Brittany hasn't quite sewn up the bodysuit she has, I guess because she's going to sew her model in? Rami is still draping, and he says that the jacket isn't working. So he's draping a big piece of fabric over one arm as “oversized”. If he goes home, then he goes home, but he refuses to put his name on the jacket because it's that bad. Christian calls Prajje's look “costume” but Prajje says “architecture”. Korto has shortened her jacket, which her model is leaving open with no bra. As she talks to Christian, Brittany pops up from under the table to ask if she can have whatever leftover fabric Korto isn't using. So now there will be some topstitched neoprene in Brittany's look. Bishme has been sewing beaded lace on the bodice. He and Christian give each other shit and it's barely this side of flirting. There is a lot of Christian telling people to hurry up and dress their models.
OK so for some reason, Elaine's hair is lopsided. It's slicked down to her head on top with finger waves, and then a little ways down it's natural so it puffs out. But when she faces the camera, the point where it puffs out is higher on one side than the other. Is that supposed to be trendy? It just looks like she was running late and the hairdresser didn't have time to finish. Anyway, the guest judge is designer Batsheva Hay. Brittany: the model has a strapless bodysuit, and then over this is a sheer dress. The sheer fabric has thin stripes, but they're more for being shiny than actually covering anything. The dress goes all the way up to a high neck, and there are long sleeves. Over her biceps are puffs of shredded fabric, and then the sleeves aren't actually attached at the wrists. It's just pieces of fabric that hang down but as she walks, her arms move in and out. I still don't know how this is modest when it's so sheer. It does have a cool design at the hems, more like what you picture when you think of lace. Prajje: long slender gown in a dark blue with a high slit. I think it's strapless? There is a big scarf or piece of fabric wrapped around her shoulders, in a blue and red print, with the origami sewn to it. Each origami piece is like a 3D diamond so there is texture. The scarf hangs over one arm. It should be “elegant and edgy” and I'm not sure how much the 3D scarf is edgy but it's more edgy than sheer fabric is modest.
Laurence: a pink leather jumpsuit. That's it basically. It's classic because leather jacket but trendy because jumpsuit. There are shoulder pads and no lapels, but the back still has a flap like it's two pieces. Rami: a black gown, or possibly a skirt and bra top. It's a basic long skirt, straight, and the top is a bandeau top with two straps that go from the center around her neck. On one side is a long piece of fabric that's draped over her arm like half of a cape. Actually, it's attached to the skirt. So imagine if you had a skirt with a train, and you took the train and attached it to your shoulder. This is the “oversized” part, and the dress is “fitted”. I guess it's fitted but I'm not sure how one piece of fabric is oversized.
Bishme: a long gown in hot pink, very tight but with one side exposed. Not just a slit in the skirt, but a cut out almost. This comes up into a strapless bustier with some beading, and then on her stomach is a pouch pocket like a hoodie has. Then we're doing that “jacket” that's just sleeves and a piece across your shoulders, with a hood. Does that style have a name? It is cut very well, although in the back the zipper is not lying perfectly flat. Korto: a black cropped jacket, with some dark pink brocade. It looks like the front is the black and the back is the brocade. It looks like there is elastic on the hem, and short sleeves. The model is wearing it with just the top inch zipped up. Then there are very wide pants in the brocade. I feel like there's some folds or pleats happening in the pants but it's hard to tell what's going on. When the model turns around, there's an inverted chevron pattern on the back of the jacket.
Laurence is up first. I guess we're not going to do that dumb thing where we say “this is one of our favorites” and then you wait to see what happens. Laurence explains how the classic is a blazer and the “motorcycle pants” are trendy. The back of the jacket is a wool, but it matches the color perfectly so it doesn't look any different from here. Nina likes the two fabrics. Brandon doesn't think it's trendy, he thinks you could wear it now and 20 years from now so that makes the whole thing classic. He does praise her tailoring. Elaine says it's a fire look but her hair is too distracting to me.
Bishme explains how he turned a hoodie into a gown. Elaine says it's beauty pageant, which...there's a hood and a pouch pocket. The beading is dated. Brandon asks why he went to that silhouette, and Bishme just kind of laughs and says he thought it would work. Nina says the hoodie is “forced” although I'm not sure how? Does it not go? It's struggling because it's too sexy. The guest judge says actually she thinks he was the best at the challenge. So there.
Rami is next and now he has to explain the “oversized” part of his dress. No one got it. He explains about how he made a jacket but it wasn't working. They wanted something more dramatic, although it is beautiful. Elaine can't let it go without harping on how this plus-sized model looks amazing because Rami made her something flattering, because Elaine doesn't like fat people but she knows that's not right so she brings up the fit of their clothes constantly.
Mimi comes out for Prajje, and sometimes the designers take the model's hand to escort them to the end of the runway, and when it's Mimi she will hold out her hand like the queen that she is, because obviously she will be escorted. The origami is supposed to be edgy, and they aren't getting it. Nina likes the texture and the technique but it's safe because it wasn't the top or the bottom. That doesn't make it “safe”, Nina. Someone has to be in the middle. That's how lists work. They talk for a while about how exactly he made the origami and then they're done I guess.
Korto says that this is “ball pants” and a bomber jacket. They're great pants with pockets, but the jacket maybe doesn't fit right? Nina disagrees, she likes the jacket but not the pants. Something more streamlined would be better, although I don't know if “casual and formal” should be streamlined. Korto talks back and says that last week she made tailored pants and a sweater and they told her she was safe. As Brandon tries to interrupt to say he was going to talk about that, Korto keeps talking to say in her mind “safe” means “boring”. As I predicted, Brandon says he never said “boring” so now the argument is about “I never said that” instead of “I disagree with you”. Last week had a lot of big moments. Korto tells the judges she's getting mixed messages. I am willing to believe the producers made sure they would have someone say the pants were great but the jacket is not, and someone else say the exact opposite. THAT'S a double bind, you guys. Well then she keeps going and says they're not considering the details she's putting in, and last week they didn't like the black so now it's color. Elaine at least admits she has a point, but the brocade is dated. Korto doesn't want to have that title, that it's not cool or modern. OK but is that Elaine's fault? It's such a weird statement, “I don't want to have that title on me, like I'm older so I make things for older people, like I can't make things modern, I can be modern.” She's really reading a million things into every comment. Elaine responds that they know she can be modern, that's why they want to see it. Someone eventually says the word “mature” and Korto pounces on it because she IS mature, she was independent at 18, she takes care of herself and doesn't depend on anyone. OK that's not how the fashion industry defines “mature” and I can't imagine Korto has gone this entire time without realizing that. Right? Or am I off-base? Eventually Korto says this is her and she's not for everybody so whatever.
Brittany has a stupid grin on her face for her look. The silhouette is supposed to be modest. Nina is already laughing. It's beautiful, but it's sheer. She's not getting nearly enough criticism for not following the challenge. It's not modest at all, but I guess it's out of her comfort zone so she gets a pass? That's bullshit.
Nina starts by saying fashion is subjective. Brandon reads off every single pairing for some reason. I guess to point out he could never come up with anything because this is a hard challenge. Laurence made something interesting, and it was forward thinking. And whatever else, she does tailor everything beautifully. So Brittany was chic and somehow cohesive and out of her comfort zone. But she didn't make anything modest! It was completely sheer! Rami's look was beautiful, and now Nina is in on the “the model is confident” train. He didn't follow the challenge either. I'm not saying either one was the worst (I mean I wouldn't be mad about it) but why have a challenge at all if you're just going to ignore it?
Prajje thought “artful” for “edgy” and Elaine thinks it was flat. She is upset because his evening wear isn't cool enough for her. The colors weren't really great but the scarf was cool. Bishme could have made something great. Brandon is disappointed after last week, and they seriously hate the bedazzling. Also this dress is somehow not effortless, and I'm not sure why. I just don't know what that means I guess. Korto didn't get there, although she had a decent idea. No one agrees on the pants.
Elaine starts off by saying words are subjective and they took that into account. Then she says Laurence and Brittany are the top two, which is ridiculous. “Modest” is not so subjective you can spin a sheer dress into being modest. Thankfully Laurence wins, because holy shit can you imagine if Brittany won. She's in, and Rami is in. Rami should have been in the bottom too but whatever. Prajje is in. Bishme had a good idea but the execution wasn't there. Korto was underwhelming. Korto is out. Bishme is in. They don't kiss her ass the way they have for other people, but she also doesn't kiss their asses either. Back in the Scrap Bin Brittany gasps all loud because she always makes a big deal about eliminations. Korto was expecting it, and she says there was nothing wrong with her outfit. Nothing any of the judges said will affect her. Did she get eliminated because she fought with the judges on the runway? Probably.
Next week: a striking menswear look, meaning everyone is thirsty and it's uncomfortable.
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