Project Runway 4/25/19--"Elegance is the New Black" summary

Previously on “Project Runway”: the designers were asked to design a video game character. But then everyone harped on how it shouldn't be a costume, even though that's literally what they're doing. And then they rewarded costumes. Some things never change, I guess. I mean Christian was asking everyone “but what does she do?” and demanding gimmicks. Tessa made a miller's daughter, complete with overalls that converted to an apron and a fake bag of flour. And let me tell you, I play Slime Rancher and the main character looks like Tessa's design. But they gave the win to Hester and her ribbons and jetpack. Venny made a weird Christian superhero, but Rakan made some folded leather top, and didn't listen to anyone (again) so Rakan was out. (click for more)

In the morning, people are missing Rakan, although they are also happy to be in the top ten. Hester declares that she can be weird because she has immunity. Big deal. She's acting like she hasn't already won and already had immunity once before this season. A butler knocks at the door and gives the designers an invitation to meet Karlie and Brandon Maxwell for a fancy party. They have an hour to get ready. The boys give Venny shit because his jacket is too small.

At Brandon's studio Karlie is doing a photo shoot. He welcomes them and they think they're actually interrupting a real photo shoot which is cute. Champagne and caviar for breakfast. Tessa is genre savvy so she knows something is coming. Of course. The next challenge is to make an elegant look. It's not always a gown or a cocktail dress, says Brandon. It's about restraint. “Venny.” Everyone giggles. Then Karlie reveals a table full of clear acrylic handbags. Think of a box that would hold a bottle of wine, then round the top and put a handle on it. That's the shape. They've been using one as the button bag, but all of these have weird things in them like headphones or a glove or lemons and limes. Brandon reveals these bags are from his last collection, and he used them to carry wine, so I was right. Of course you must be inspired by what is in your bag. “Random” draw to pick both a bag and model. Hester does not get to go first.

Sonia is first up, and she takes the bag with purple rhinestone headphones. It's not what she usually does, but she feels like she's been off-base with what the judges want so maybe it's good to do something different. Lela's bag has a small bust of a woman. Sebastian has pink orchids, Bishme has a teal glove with gold jewelry, Venny takes the rose wine. Jamall takes a giant perfume bottle. They're all picking models too, but I don't remember who the models are, basically, so I don't know if they're all keeping their models or what. They are showing each model's measurements and photo on screen, so I can see that the bigger girls are being left for last. Renee takes a purse full of lemons and limes, Hester picks peacock feathers. Tessa says she's freaking out not because of how there are only two purses left but because she's going to be stuck with a fat model. Oh, sorry, “curvier”. We all know what she meant. Brandon shames her by addressing the group and reminding them that when a woman comes to them, their job is to make her feel good. This way everyone can nod and make Tessa look bad, even though all of them had the chance to take the plus-size models and didn't. Tessa takes a handbag with money, and gives an interview complaining about her model. Not her model specifically, just that you have to worry about fit when your model isn't skinny. Because I guess clothes don't have to fit skinny people? Garo ends up with a silver mirror and brush, but he says he would have picked it anyway. Garo's model is the same one that Nadine bitched about when she got eliminated, who apparently can't walk or something. Garo says he's going to give her a great look. Also it's a flash challenge. Big whoop, nothing has ever come of that. Two day challenge, $400 at Mood. Tessa is realizing that the judges could hold her comment against her at judging.

At Mood Hester is matching the colors of her peacock feathers but not actually buying peacock feathers, which is probably a good idea. She says she's making an evening gown with pasties? I think that's what she said? I can't understand her, and it makes no sense. I guess we'll find out. Christian hollers at Renee to use some color. Bishme buys backup fabric, so he has some options.

Venny wants to be restrained, but still be himself. He's making a cocktail dress, but it will still be fun. He interviews that there's enough darkness in the world, so he makes fun clothes. Lela is making a corset to match the vaguely Grecian bust. Her whole dress is going to be entirely black organza, if she can pull it off. Jamall sketches bell bottoms and a coat. Tessa is looking at Hester's bag, and she asks what “peacocking” is. Hester says it's when straight men wear something stupid to attract straight women. Hee. Sebastian doesn't want to be really literal with his orchid inspiration, but use the colors and have a subtle shape inspiration. Sonia worries that she's put all her structure and work on the inside of her garment and no one will see it. But they will notice it looks great. She's going for “modern young DJ”, which is going to be a tailored dress with an asymmetrical kimono over it. Bishme briefly complains that he can't pick between his two fabrics, but he and Lela agree that's better than not having options. Then he says “maybe I'm Hestoring”, which apparently is when you change your idea a million times. Heh. It's the end of the day anyway, so he's going to sleep on it.

Back at the penthouse one room has a discussion of Karlie's deodorant and one has a discussion of how hard it is to be a designer. Garo and Sonia are giving Jamall advice. Sonia makes bespoke clothing, which is where you design clothes for your specific clients, rather than produce a bunch of stuff for a store. She had some clothes in a store and someone approached her and asked her to make an outfit. We have a couple of bespoke shops here, and I've thought about using them. Luckily they're not that expensive, if you take the price of a good quality garment at a department store and then add on tailoring if you are short like me or otherwise end up having trouble fitting clothing right off the rack.

Day Two. Tessa is bitching about how she is nervous to make an oversized jacket. She seems to think she'll immediately be put in the bottom for not complementing her model. Hester points out she can do it if the jacket fits properly and accents the right parts of her body. Tessa, come on, I want to like you. Garo rolls his eyes because he thinks Tessa should just make the garment already and deal with it. It's not hard. Garo's model, in addition to being shit on by Nadine, is the poor girl who had Jamall's suit last week with no shirt or bra. Don't worry, he's making a corset for support.

Christian comes in and gets a lackluster welcome. He loves Sonia's “Japanese DJ” concept, but the kimono is maybe too far. Hester did actually say pasties. A sheer gown and pasties. Plus she has to take a social media photo. Christian is worried. In the middle of the conversation he yells at Tessa to stop eavesdropping and go back to work. Of course Tessa is next, and then Christian is already aware this is the first time Tessa has had a curvy model, so this story is already spreading. Tessa starts talking about how she's thinking of her mom, and how her mom always wears oversized coats. I mean I'm not sure how an oversized coat is “elegant” on anyone. Under the coat has to be tailored and clean. Bishme asks Christian to help him choose between the two fabrics he's gotten for his blouse. The skirt is already playful, so the top needs to be more refined. Jamall's jacket is too boring. He's freaking out about being in the bottom twice. He's made his outfit in muslin as he usually does, and Christian wants him to actually get the fabric on the dressform.

After Christian leaves, Jamall starts draping. He never drapes so I think he's still freaking out. Bishme decides on the more colorful fabric option. Model fitting. Venny realizes if he elongates the straps (like Tessa's first outfit) it'll look cool. Garo's corset looks really good. Jamall's outfit looks pretty good, and Christian comes over to tell him how great it is. Hester tells him she's glad he's found himself again, because she wants to go up against the best. Sonia has a ton of work to do and she's freaking out loudly. Tessa's coat has weird cold shoulder sleeves, and her model is supposed to take her arms out of the sleeves (but below the opening, so she'll still have short sleeves?) and then use the sleeves as a belt. Because instead of making a fitted coat she's adamant the sleeves be used to cinch the whole thing.

Runway Day. Jamall is so glad his garment turned out. I'm distracted by Hester's leather collar with huge rings and fur shrug. She's explaining how she's going to put pasties on. Sonia still has a ton of work to do, as does Bishme. Garo's dress isn't earth-shattering, but her chest looks great. He interviews about how Tessa still hasn't finished the hems on her pants, and she's supposed to be top ten. There's a voiceover, playing as she adjusts her model, where she says “Some of us want to play up our model's curves, and some of us don't.” It really feels out of context, and I know the editing on this show is pretty wonky, but I'm having a hard time coming up with some context for that statement that's not a really poor attitude for her. Lela is making a sleeve still. Hester's poor model has to hold on the pasties, because the glue has to dry. They're glued on with fabric glue, over a sheer shirt so I guess there's technically a layer of fabric. Sonia is going to have to scrap her kimono, because there's no time to make it properly. Venny breaks his zipper, but luckily for him he's broken off the zipper pull after the model is dressed. So she just will have to be cut out of the dress. Bishme has too many things happening but he's also in that spot where he just shrugs and gives up. Venny has to do a bunch of last minute hand sewing.

No guest judge today. Bishme: long sleeved blouse with a turtleneck, in a black fabric with a blue and tan floral print. It's got slight mutton sleeves, but not as bad as Kenley used to do. The skirt is black with an inverted V at her navel and kind of a high waist. It looks like a pencil or tulip skirt, but with a ruffle from just above her knees, to the hem just below her knees. On one side there is a panel that just hangs down from her waist. The back of the blouse is weirdly draped like wings. It looks like something Debra Messing would wear on one of her television shows and that is not a complement. Garo: strapless beige cocktail dress, with a full skirt ending at the knee. The top has a corset and straps that go across her arms, and some draping in the front. Her chest looks good, finally, but the draping makes it look saggy and I think the corset has slipped from the fitting. And this color is super boring. Venny: slim hot pink dress, with thick straps (like a tank top) and ending below the knee. It fits well but is this it? There's not much here. The back shows that the straps extend past onto her back a little bit, but not enough to hang down or dangle or anything.

Lela: black gown with white stripes in a windowpane pattern. The top is strapless, but with a big swath of white fabric over one shoulder. I think she built out the hips to make them wider. I thought she was going to do Grecian draping? I'm not sure what this tailored gown with squares on it has to do with a Grecian marble bust. Sonia: strapless black gown. I think the skirt has some draping so it looks like a wrap skirt but it's subtle. It fits well but...it's a strapless black gown. She's also got a wrap lined in bright purple but the model never puts it on. It looks like it's wrapped around a wrist, but it's just a length of fabric? She flips it over a shoulder but I have no idea. I guess that was supposed to be the kimono. When she said dress I thought something shorter. Renee: black cropped pants and a long sleeved top. There's a big yellow scarf around her neck and I can't see the top very well. I think there's another scarf? A bib? Something in yellow and black. The pants are weirdly tapered. Hester: chartreuse mermaid skirt in a shiny satin. I think it fits but it's very heavy and layered at the bottom. Then a long sleeved top made entirely out of sheer illusion netting, with matching green cuffs. It doesn't even match her model's skin tone, although that might be on purpose. And two tiny circular pasties. First of all, you glued shit to your model with fabric glue just for your own shits and giggles. Secondly, there's not even tassels! Brandon says “Really!?” so he's annoyed too.

Tessa: long loose black pants, and a black top with a mullet hem. The neckline is just a straight neckline but it looks fine. Over this is a big purple coat that looks like a short kimono robe, with the weird opening in the sleeves. How is this money? Also, it looks like an outfit I would put on when I'm tired and cold and I want to be comfortable. It certainly is not terrible and I would wear it but it's not "elegant" by any stretch. At the end of the runway she takes off the jacket, revealing the back of the bodice, which just has the one horizontal strap like a bra. Her poor model can't bend down to pick up the handbag, so she's doing that crouch thing, and one of the straps falls down off her shoulder, which means it doesn't fit. Sebastian: pink pants and sleeveless top. The top looks like a vest or a kimono with a slightly lighter blouse underneath, belted open to frame the blouse. There are some ruffles at the shoulders, more like petals, and I think tails? Like a tux. Jamall: strapless dress in a sort of plaid print. It's got the multitude of horizontal and vertical stripes plaid has, but the background is a dusty pink and all the stripes are black in different thicknesses. The bodice looks like a traditional construction, but the skirt has a lot of folds and it looks like he did exactly what he talked about: he wrapped the fabric around the dressform and pinned it. So it's got weird bunches and is asymmetrical.

Sebastian, Tessa, Garo, and Renee are safe. That shit from Tessa is safe? Sebastian is just safe?? What, did you not want to try to mass produce Sebastian's look? Bah. Bishme didn't want to play it safe, as he interpreted the hand in his bag as reaching upwards. Brandon tells him he didn't streamline anything, because the skirt has several elements, and the blouse has the wings, and so forth. Nina hates the print. Lela says her look is something old and something new. Nina loves the graphic black and white look and the hips, but maybe not the shoulder thing. The graphic windowpane stripes are a hit with everyone. Hester admits she has wanted to make this gown for a while because she feels there is nothing more elegant that going topless. This is garbage. Come on. Somehow the judges tell her that the pasties aren't the problem, it's that they're poorly made. What is this. “This is disrespectful to your other work”. Are we setting her up to win the whole thing or something? I am not against a quirky designer but this is getting old.

Jamall explains how he changed his whole process, and then Brandon is at a loss for words. But they all love it to death. They're coming up with how it's really him, and plaid is masculine and this is feminine, Brandon's crying, everyone's acting like they're all mentoring him. He wrapped fabric around a dress form. Venny wanted to have a celebration. The only problem they have is with the hanging straps, which is the only part of the dress that is unique in any way. If they weren't there, it would be a sleeveless dress I could go out and buy right now. Sonia talks about her DJ and how she couldn't make all of her design. It's well constructed but too dated. Dated? I mean I guess. Of course once she says she would have made a kimono Elaine tells her she would have loved that. I do think there is not any DJ wearing a long gown, and it's kind of boring, I'm just not sure it's “dated”.

Lela's design is actually not as good up close. It's overworked and cheap looking, but you can't see it until you get close. Elaine says Venny's dress is what women want to buy. Yeah, and you already can. The hems are great, and the side panels of the dress are red and the colors go together really well. Jamall's dress has a weird kangaroo pouch that no one cares about. It is now about how this dress is really “Jamall” and he's come into his own and gender fluidity.

Hester's dress is terrible you guys, come on. Nina gives her credit for being daring, but it failed. If she didn't have immunity she'd be out. Bishme had a bunch of ideas and he put them all in his outfit. There is something in the skirt, maybe. But they can't agree on that. Nina says Sonia's look is so classic it's cliché. I can get behind that. Now she's getting the dreaded “I don't get her point of view”. Sonia is mediocre and out of touch, but delivered a polished (boring) dress. Bishme has ideas, but can't edit.

Lela is in. Jamall is the winner. I guess? I guess I'm bored with this episode. Also if you thought he should win, is it worth $135? Because that's how much they're selling his dress for. Hester is in. Karlie tells Bishme and Sonia that the decision came down to half a point. Bishme has a taste problem, and Sonia is boring. Bishme is in. Sonia is out. Yeah it's probably about time for her to be out. Sonia loves her look, so she's not as upset to be out on something she stands behind. Not everything is right for everyone. She's in a fairly good mood. Christian even tells her that he does a lot of red carpet, and plenty of women would wear her dress. She's looking forward to going home.

next time: mini collection for Morena Baccarin's vacation, twist in effect, people are maybe turning on Tessa.