Thursday, January 10, 2019

Top Chef 1/10/19--"Roaring Munchies" summary


Previously on “Top Chef”: the end of Restaurant Wars. As expected, Third Coast was a trash fire and everyone blamed Nini. I'm not sure what Justin could have done to help the situation, and apparently those “waiters” were caterers which mostly explains why no one understood table numbers, but apparently it wasn't much. Brian's super anal service manual and chicken ballotine gave him the win. Pablo cooked his proteins poorly, and the judges blamed Nini too, so those two were sent home. I think even if the FOH stuff wasn't totally Nini's fault, she did plan to spin ice cream to order during service, but she wasn't ever going to be back in the kitchen during service and I'm not sure she actually discussed this plan with her team. (click for more)


On Last Chance Kitchen, there were two episodes to get down to two people. The first challenge was to make up a restaurant concept and then make your signature dish. Brother Luck and Nini made it through, with “Southwest meets Japan” and “Vietnam meets New Orleans”, respectively. Then they had to make three courses for this restaurant, in an hour, with the help of the current contestants. We saw two of these courses, but without solid comments from Tom. So probably we should consider this a tie. The third course was kept under wraps until right now.

Of course first we have to start in the house where Brian is low-key pleased about winning. He's low-key about pretty much everything all the time. Everyone is tired, but mostly Kelsey complains and she and Adrienne discuss how Nini is totally going to be back.

Once we figure out what Last Chance Kitchen is and what is happening, we get some interviews about how tough this is and whatever. Kelsey doesn't want to be on Brother Luck's team, but we knew that from last week. However, Brian also is not terribly pleased about having to help someone beat his friend. I'm not going to recap this again. Brother talks a lot more about his Asian influences, and how he doesn't want to go home right at the last minute.

We are reminded that Nini's po' boy style shrimp are a little dry but the sauce is good, and Brother Luck's jalapeno popper and pickles still need to be more Japanese. David takes some blame for Nini going home, because he says he could have worked harder during Restaurant Wars. Nini's pork chop is great, although Tom complains about needing more flavor in the pork. Well, with actual time for marinading, it would have been fine, but you only gave them like 30 minutes. Brother Luck's scallop only gets praise, that we can see.

Third course. Brother Luck: seared tuna, pico de gallo with cherry, apple, tomato, cilantro with beurre blanc and bonito flakes. Nini: tapioca pudding with bananas Fostered bananas, coconut foam, toasted coconut and pecans. I guess “bananas Fostered bananas” means she flambed them at some point? Both go over very well. Back with the other contestants Justin is muttering to Kelsey to give her shit for working hard for Brother Luck. “How could you work hard for him?” Shut up, Justin. Kelsey asks what exactly she was supposed to do, because seriously. She's slightly annoying but she isn't a garbage person. Sara shushes them both because this is a stupid conversation. Then Padma appears with a chef's coat. Tom says the winner is Brother Luck. WELL. Nini had a couple of missteps. That sucks. Is this another Brooke situation? Where everyone thought Brooke should have won her season so they brought her back and then magically she could do no wrong, and made it through Last Chance Kitchen, and then she won? Because I certainly like Brother Luck but that's boring.

Tom offers everyone cocktails, which is slightly hilarious. The Elimination Challenge this week is to serve for a 1920's themed party in Louisville. Someone comes out with cocktails: Gin Rickey, Southside Fizz, Old Fashioned, the Last Word, Whiskey Sour, the Twelve-Mile Limit. Everyone will pick one of these cocktails, and make a canape “inspired” by the cocktail. Brother Luck gets to go first, and he chooses a Southside Fizz (gin, lemon juice, club soda, mint, simple syrup). Also, Bravo, I know that font on those cards looks all cool and old-timey but it's hard to read. Then he gets to pick the order for his team to choose. That's the “advantage” Tom promised them. Brian and Sara go next, and both pick The Last Word (gin, lime juice, green chartreuse, maraschino liquor). Kelsey takes a Twelve Mile Limit (rum, whiskey, brandy, grenadine, lemon juice, lemon twist). Eddie takes an Old Fashioned (bourbon, sugar, bitters, citrus rind) (my favorite) and Adrienne takes a Gin Rickey (gin, seltzer, lime juice). Justin picks the Old Fashioned, Michelle takes a Whiskey Sour (bourbon, lemon juice, sugar, dash of egg white). I think it's Michelle. Eric picks the Twelve Mile Limit, and then David takes the other Gin Rickey so Brandon is left with a Whiskey Sour. I thought they had two of each, and there's eleven people. Unless Brother Luck not only got to go first but no one else can get what he picked?

Tomorrow's party is for 100 guests at the rathskeller in the basement of a hotel. “Rathskeller” is a German word for a restaurant in a basement. We used to have one at college, in the basement of Umrath Hall so it was called Umrathskeller, but we all called it “The Rat”. Great burgers. Anyway, 3 hours of prep today and 1 hour tomorrow.

Brother Luck is freaking out, and his car welcomes him. We're reminded that he went out last time on a technicality: they were looking for a German dish, and his dish wasn't German enough. Eddie wants to do cured salmon, and he says he's made dishes around cocktails before. Brother Luck is discovering he's not familiar with this Whole Foods which could be a problem. Justin wants to do duck a l'orange. Michelle actually talks and says is going to make gougeres, which are like cream puffs but usually savory.

Three hours today to cook. Brother makes a “Groundhog Day” comment. Adrienne is making shrimp toast dusted with juniper to get that gin flavor in. Sara is making a couple of purees, one of burnt eggplant. Plenty of poaching with juniper and also poaching with bourbon. Eric is using seafood because of the origin of the cocktail name. Twelve Mile Limit is supposed to be named for rich people that would go twelve miles offshore, where US laws no longer apply, so they could drink during Prohibition. Eddie has a giant pot of cream on the stove, in order to boil away all the water so he's left with crumbly solids. It sounds like cheese curds? Anyway, he almost lets the pot boil over, but someone saves it. In general it seems like people are looking out for each other and giving warnings that things are overcooking. Actually everyone is constantly warning him that his cream is overcooking, but he wants it to, so I can see how that would be annoying.

Tom Time! And he's brought Graham. Brother Luck is making chicken thighs and beef liver peanut mousse. Tom makes a dumb joke about peanut livers. They talk to Adrienne but they just make a joke about dresses. Aren't you going to ask her about what she's cooking? Graham tries to ask Brandon why he picked his cocktail, and Tom laughs that he was last so he had no choice. Brian is making gnocchi, and he says his wife is a craft bartender so he's playing off some variations of the drink. Tom says his son is also a bartender, but he says it with such disdain. Like he's ashamed his son is a mixologist. Then they leave, and don't think I didn't notice that you only talked to men and the one woman you talked to, you talked about dresses and Graham made a joke about crossdressing.

With 30 minutes to go, I think Eddie's stuff is finally done. Eric has most of his work done, thankfully. Everyone packs up and goes back to the house, where Brother Luck now has to make friends. Or at least overcome like, Kelsey's attitude of “we don't want anyone else in this house”. Brian tells him multiple rooms have beds, and Brother Luck asks which ones are cursed. Heh. Brian quickly replies that they're all cursed, those beds are empty for a reason. I don't think everyone is that pissed off about Brother Luck being here. Kelsey, sure, and I guess Justin, but other than that everyone seems at least civil? Or they're faking it well.

In the morning as people make breakfast, Michelle does yoga and gets screen time for once. That's not a good sign for her. I mean, I am pretty sure there are people who forgot she existed before Restaurant Wars, and then suddenly she's getting an interview about how she tries to meditate every day? Is she the top or bottom or are we just down to few enough people that she merits screen time finally?

The rathskeller is gorgeous. One hour to cook today. Brian has given himself too much work to do. He talks to Sara about how they both have the Last Word, and she interrupts him to say she has the last word, and when he gets the joke he throws some fennel fronds at her. Heh. It looks like Justin has pate. Eric tells us he has 150 oysters to shuck in 40 minutes, and then Kelsey rolls her eyes and says you can't shuck 200 oysters in an hour. First of all, get your story right, Kelsey, and secondly the party is only for 100? I mean, extras, but 50 extra? Kelsey herself has tiny scallops that she's cleaning. Brother Luck's chile is very strong.

People show up to the party in costume. Padma has a short bob and I wonder if it is a wig or if they put her hair up carefully so it just looks like a bob. Brian just dumps a whole pile of sausage on the flattop because he has no time. Eddie needs a win. It looks like everyone is plating back in the kitchen, so this won't be the usual “man a booth and schmooze the people” party. It also means no one is really cooking to order.

Eddie: bourbon-cured smoked salmon crudo with peach puree, caramelized orange gastrique and brown butter. Brandon: duck and artichoke croquette with pickled fennel relish. Brother Luck: chicken salad with cucumber, peanut sauce, beef liver mousse, Fresno chiles, and basil, cilantro, and mint. Eddie did a great job, it was subtle and balanced and reminded them of an Old Fashioned. Brandon was smart to use the artichokes, but Padma would like more salt. Brother Luck's dish is very spicy, and I would argue that a tiny cup with chicken salad and mousse is not a canape. Well, I guess crudo in a Chinese soup spoon isn't a canape either. Tom doesn't think it has anything to do with the cocktail.

Brian wanted to pan sear his gnocchi, but he has no time, so he's deep fried them instead. Michelle has to cut open her gougeres and stuff them individually. Brian: pork, fennel and Calabrian chili sausage with basil and fennel gnocchi. Kelsey: bay scallop ceviche, rhubarb cherry consomme and corn puree. Michelle: liver mousse gougeres with bourbon and sour cherries pickled with thyme and pomegranate syrup. Michelle's dish is soggy and Graham says it's not sour. Kelsey's ceviche is going over well, because the liquid is like the drink? This round it's loud and they haven't miked Padma well or something because I can barely hear her and they haven't bothered to use the subtitles. Everyone knows Brian fried the gnocchi because they can tasted the stale oil, plus the sausage is dried out too.

Justin: duck a l'orange with duck liver mousse, bourbon, orange zest and greens with angostura vinaigrette. Sara: bay scallops, avocado, eggplant, crudite. Eric: oyster with rum/bourbon mignonette, grenadine nage floater and pumpernickel. Nage is a white wine broth used for poaching. The oyster is wonderful, the pumpernickel is a great touch and Graham loves the “12 mile-ocean-oysters” thought process. And it tastes like the cocktail. Justin's dish is complex and a great balance of savory and sweet. And he pronounces the dish with the proper French pronunciation Marjorie from Top Chef California. Sara's dish is mostly salt and not enough acid. It's one note, and maybe not inspired by the cocktail.

David: shrimp tartare, cucumber, apple and radish. Adrienne: shrimp and avocado toast with cucumber, watermelon, juniper and Serrano chile. David's dish has a “long finish”, which I guess means it has a nice aftertaste. The radish is nice. Tom likes Adrienne's shrimp toast flavors, but Padma says all she got was oil, and then Graham shows them the napkins she served on, which are pretty greasy. Padma makes some joke but I can't understand her.

Sara sits in the Stew Room and wishes she had a cocktail. Remember when people got drunk in there because if you were the middle of the road, you got to sit around for a couple of hours and relax? I miss that.

Judges' Table. This was a creative challenge, but the misses were bigger. Kelsey, Eric, and Eddie are the top three. Eddie wanted the Old Fashioned because it's straightforward flavorwise. He didn't want to overthink it. Heh. Everyone laughs about him being stressed out, and Eddie claims he's totally not, just maybe his eyebrows make you think that. OK that is hilarious. Tom totally loses it. The salmon was rich and all the flavors were balanced, like a well-made cocktail. Kelsey wanted something delicate. It tasted like a cocktail and was delicious. Eric wanted something swanky, and he balanced everything perfectly. Plus they love that he worked with the story of the cocktail name. The winner is Eric. He's glad to have finally won something.

Brian, Sara, and Brother Luck are the bottom three. There should be a Loser Gong here. I miss the Loser Gong. Obnoxiously Michelle smirks a little bit. Maybe she doesn't, maybe that's just editing. Sara wanted her dish to be fatty to counter the acidic drink, but then she chose scallops which are very lean. Maybe the texture would have fooled you? Then she says she wanted to make a parfait, but Tom compares it to a dip that you would scoop up with chips, and not a particularly memorable one at that. Brian felt good about the challenge...until...right now. He claims that he liked his dish. Frying the gnocchi really dried it out, and then there wasn't enough sauce. Everything was one-note. Brian didn't want the gnocchi to be gummy, but Padma says it was greasy instead. Brother Luck immediately says he lost the thread and moved away from the cocktail. He got caught up in flavor profiles, so his dish didn't have anything to do with the cocktail. Tom twists the knife and says last time he went home for not following the challenge, and now he's up here again for the same thing. Brother Luck claims he heard and understood the challenge, but he just “let” other flavor profiles “take over”.

All three chefs on the bottom missed the challenge, but in addition none of the three dishes were any good. Sara's dish was very boring and Tom seems personally offended. Brother Luck's dish had nothing to do with the drink. He went for “banh mi” for some reason, and even if he had actually made a banh mi, it still wouldn't have been inspired by the drink. Brian clearly never tasted his dish, because it was dry and unseasoned and didn't have the flavors he thought it should have.

Making canapes is hard, because you have to get your flavors in one bite. But it is possible, clearly. And then Brother Luck is sent home?? So then what is the point of all this?! I get that he failed in this challenge. But clearly there was a story being told here, so why bring him back for one challenge and then kick him out again? Oh, unless this story is to send him back to Last Chance Kitchen so he can come back again. Just push him through already if that's where this is going. I don't need to see everyone breathe a sigh of relief because he's gone and they didn't want him around.

Next week: burning things, butchering and hacksaws.

Last Chance Kitchen: we start with Brother Luck's interview, right after he lost. He is OK with what he's done, and he made one mistake and that's how it works. Maybe competing on the show is not his forte. He didn't get validation last season, or he didn't feel like he did. But this season he was able to come to terms with it, and know that he really didn't need that validation. While his interview is happening, Tom is asking the peanut gallery who they think will be competing today. Nini is already back in the group, but Carrie and Jim are nowhere to be seen. Tom makes them line up and then says they're competing. Brother Luck has quit. Oh wow. He's already proven himself, and he's had his shot. A producer asks him in his interview if he thinks he'll ever get to a point where he's OK with competing, or is he done-done. No, he's done-done. He doesn't have it in him to compete anymore. All the other contestants are hungry for it, and it really does seem like he's at peace with no longer being on the show. Or at least he's so tired of competing that he doesn't want to go back. I feel like everyone is just shocked.

The challenge will be to do whatever you want. No restrictions. This dish should tell Tom everything he needs to know about why he should let you back in. One person will win. Nini hates open-ended challenges because she's indecisive. Tom then says he's leaving, so he won't know who made what. Natalie doesn't like talking so she's good with it.

30 minutes. Caitlin is sweating and lamenting that she didn't wear her sports bra. Hee. She tries to battle Pablo for some sea bass, but when he insists on using it she calls him “you tiny penis” and then he says he's not going to use this beef and she can have it. He wants to make a really simple dish. Nini wants to make sure her plate clearly belongs to her. She wants to make chawanmushi. Somehow Natalie ends up with the sea bass? It's Kevin's birthday, but he knows that everyone loses on their birthday. He's making a Spanish soup. Pablo needs to balance his dish. Caitlin is making Cincinnati chili, or actually putting spices on a steak to remind everyone of it. Hmm. Everyone loves that Tom is not around to bother all of them. I love Sassy!Tom in LCK but I am not trying to cook at the same time. Kevin pickles nuts. Nini can't find the right dishes to steam her custard in, so she's just got bowls and they might cause her dish to not be evenly cooked. Kevin's soup is just kind of lukewarm which is not good. He thinks maybe his flavors will make this OK. Lots of really frantic working. Nini may have run out of time to get everything cooked properly.

Natalie: sea bass with whey braised Napa cabbage, chicken jus and pickles mushrooms. Nicely cooked and the sauce is meaty. Caitlin: Cincinnati chili spice rubbed steak and mustard sauce. The sauce is really bitter but the steak is nice. Nini: chawanmushi with mushrooms. The texture turned out really well, and it's got great flavors. Pablo: seared sea bass with pickled radishes, apples and sauteed mushrooms. Nicely cooked and well balanced. Kevin: salmorejo soup with olive salad. Tom says it's fruity and spicy and rich. Salmorejo soup is roasted tomatoes and bread, pureed into a soup.

Caitlin explains her Cincinnati chili and Tom laughs. He couldn't get past Natalie's garnish. Aww. Kevin's soup has a lot going on, but it was too thick. These three are not in. Kevin says the birthday curse is real and it sucks. The custard was cooked a little quickly, and the mushrooms could have used a touch more seasoning. But the flavors were lovely and the texture of the custard is great. Pablo's garnishes worked together, but Tom says he had to eat them a couple of times? I'm not sure. But then Pablo wins?! I thought for sure they'd let Nini back in. Maybe that's why this was a blind tasting, so Tom wasn't biased. But come on, who else is going to make chawanmushi? Nini is done with being eliminated three times already. Pablo is back into Last Chance Kitchen.

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